Tsumago to Magome

After a truly magical stay at Koshinzuka minshuku, we started off for our last day of hiking the Nakasendo. But not before breakfast in front of the fire pit. 

See the fish on the bottom plate? Our hostess informed us that it was intended to be eaten whole, head and all. So I gamely picked it up with my chopsticks, and chomped off the head.  (really - Dave has the photo to prove it). A bit crunchy, but actually pretty good. 

I had to ask our host about this photo framed on the wall:

That is the father of the current owner of Koshinzuka, holding a rifle, taken about 30 years ago, in front of the room where we were sitting. The bear ( you didn't miss him, did you?) was shot along the trail we were about to take. Hmmm, might be something to all those bear bells along the trail.

This portion of the Nakasendo, from Tsumago to Mangome, is the most popular, and we met lots of other hikers on the trail. It was actually a bit jarring to run into so many Americans again. But the scenery was beautiful, and even with stopping frequently to take pictures, we were in Mangome at 1:30. 

Leaving Koshinzuka minshuku

The trail started just across the road from our minshuku.

We shortly encountered two waterfalls. I'll let you guess which is the 'female' and which is the 'male'. 

Just before reaching Magome Pass, we came to this rest house, where we were served tea and sliced persimmon. And who should we run into but our trail friend  who was hiking the Nakesendo for the second time. 

Rest house.

Will finish post tonight, so come back & there will be more!